Friday, 18 November 2011

Caponata or How I Beat the Eggplanspiracy

I mentioned it before: I love eggplants. It's a gorgeous, versatile veg with which one can cook an infinite number of scrumptious dishes. Their odd shape and color seems to intimidate a lot of people, but I am faithful to their deliciousness, and I always look forward to trying a new way to cook them.

Unfortunately, I seem to be the victim of some Machiavellian eggplant conspiracy: when I find a recipe with eggplants and get all excited about it, I can't find any of the damn veggies in any of the grocery stores in town! And of course, when the last thing I think about is cooking with eggplants... they. Are. Everywhere. In massive quantities. Oh, the irony. I can't find where this conspiracy stems from or why I am being targeted; please let me know if you are also a victim of this horrible plot. Maybe we can fight it together, like eggplant-vigilantes.

My strategy, to beat the eggplanspiracy, was to stack up a pile of recipes involving eggplants and to buy the purple beauties every time I found some. That way, I am never out of ideas on how to prepare those cuties. Ha!

This week, I bought a plump eggplant, and decided to make caponata, as a side dish to some pasta (for those who liked the tomato-basil spaghetti, these two recipes go oh so well together; I urge you to try it!). Caponata is an Italian antipasto (or entrée); some people call it a stew, but I find it's more like a chunky chutney. It's full of all the stuff that make Italian food awesome: tomatoes, olives, onions, olive oil, garlic, oregano… A whole bunch of stuff I love to eat, all thrown in the same pan and cooked together. Awe-some.

It's also pretty versatile, being good either hot from the pot or cold. I like it on a nice piece of bread as a snack, or next to my pasta. Perfection on a plate. If you have leftovers and you want a healthy and easy lunch (or if you are trying to avoid O.D.-ing on pasta), eat it with some quinoa; it's a little hippie-ish, but super tasty and it makes a complete meal if you have a lovely yogurt for dessert.

This recipe is a re-working on the one I found in "Jamie's Italy", by Mr. Oliver. I like to keep my caponata simple, but if you feel inspired to add more Mediterranean-cuisine inspired stuff in there, go right ahead. My advice is to make a basic one once, so you get an idea of the flavors and textures, and then get a bit more experimental. Artichoke hearts, anchovies (if you're so inclined) and capers all fit in nicely with the other ingredients. Add them at the same time as the olives.

1 large eggplant, cut into large chunks
1 heaping tablespoon oregano
Sea salt and ground pepper
1 red onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely sliced
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and stems chopped
1 large handful green olives, pitted
1 large handful Kalamata olives, pitted
2-3 tablespoons herb vinegar (or a combination of red and while wine vinegar)
3 large ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons slivered almonds (optional)
1 handful pinenuts (optional)

Put the eggplants chunks in a colander and sprinkle with salt. Let degorge for 20 to 30 minutes, rinse and drain. Heat up a bit of olive oil in a large pan. Add the eggplants and oregano, a bit of salt and freshly ground pepper. Toss around to coat the eggplants with oil; cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the eggplants are getting golden, add the onion, garlic, parsley stem and continue cooking for a few minutes. Throw in the olives and drizzle with a bit of herbal vinegar. When it has evaporated, add the tomatoes and simmer for 15 minutes, or until everything is tender. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Sprinkle with the parsley leaves, almonds and pinenuts, and serve hot or cold.





I used black olives instead of green ones, but I think a mix of both is my favorite way to go. If out of herbal vinegar, fear not! A bit of red or white wine vinegar does the trick.

As you see, there is nothing very complicated about this recipe. I am an advocate of sweating your eggplant before you start cooking, as it will absorb more flavor and less oil that way (and therefore, won't get mushy and nasty-looking). For those who've never done it, simply put your cubed eggplant in a colander, sprinkle with salt (don't freak out, you're going to rinse it off), toss the cubes around and let it sit there for 20 to 30 minutes. You'll notice the eggplant will degorge, i.e. the water will come out. It actually looks like little sweat beads. Then, simply rinse the contents of your colander under cold water, and pat them dry with a paper towel. It was a mandatory step back in the days before eggplants were cultivated to have fewer seeds (which can make them bitter). I still like to do it, but it does add half an hour to your prep time, so if you are in a rush or starving, skip this step without feeling too guilty about it. It won't spoil the dish if you eggplants don't sweat.

Carnivores rejoice, it also makes a great side to grilled and roast meat, especially lamb and beef (or delicious fish, as pictured). A nice, robust red wine is the perfect match for this, as it's a fairly rustic fare. My favorite is Dogajolo. Salute!

Monday, 14 November 2011

The Comfort of Chocolate Chip Cookies (and a Rant)

My mother used to call me Cookie Monster: she'd buy a bag of Chips Ahoy, and my brother and I would make the contents of that bag vanish before she had time to put the rest of the groceries away. It was impressive, but then, we were growing adolescents... To this day, I still eat my cookies like a kid, curled up on the couch or in my reading chair, with a big glass of milk. The only difference is that I now content myself with 1 or 2 cookies, instead of scarfing down half the bag. Oh, the wisdom that comes with age and with a slowing metabolism...

The past few weeks at work have been on the crazy side, and I decided that a little home-made, chocolate-y comfort food was in order. Also, the days getting dramatically shorter make me want to curl up at home and pout. I miss the sunlight, and even if cold weather gives me the opportunity to whip up stews, soups and other awesome rich winter dishes I sometimes long for in summer, I still miss the days where my hoodie is something I put on to take an evening stroll, not a clothing item I wear all day long. So a little "pick me up" treat with loads of sugar was in order.

My last attempt at baking cookies was not exactly successful, probably because I got ambitious and picked a rather elaborate recipe that my baking-skills were not quite ready to tackle. Somehow, making cupcakes is much easier for me than making cookies. Go figure. So I decided to go with a very simple and classic cookie, something almost fail-proof: chocolate chips!

I had one ingredient I absolutely wanted to add to my cookies, and that ingredient is white chocolate. I know, I know: white chocolate is nothing but sugar, with very little of the healthy cocoa found in the good dark chocolate that nutritionists recommend we eat. But when I am flattened with exhaustion on my couch, the nutritional concern goes out the window and I just want to bask in the sinful deliciousness of the white chocolate. I am a sugar-bug deep down inside, and I love the intoxicating sweetness of white chocolate. It's my crack.

Now a little disclaimer about cooking in general, particularly baking. I had to deal with some rather narrow-minded remarks when people realize that I love my kitchen time. As if being inked, having purple hair and listening to the Dead Kennedys automatically meant that I was some sort of culinary-inept bum. As I mentioned before, nothing is more punk-rock and DIY than home-cooking. Also, cooking is an amazing and rewarding way to spend time. I don't know how other people feel when they are cooking, but it can be almost meditative: you have to be in the here and now (especially with baking)! It keeps me focused, on top of being a creative and experimental endeavor. I'm always learning, always having fun, and I eat delicious meals all the time.

The "housewife" in this blog's title is ironic, because of all the archaic stereotypes associated with the word. I use it to poke fun at the idea that people who like to cook and enjoy their homes are Martha Stewart drones. Hopefully, some prejudice somewhere will be destroyed by bad-ass chicks who can bake up a storm.

Now let's make cookies!

I got this chocolate chip cookie recipe from "Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar", which also contains a whole wheat version. I baked the classic recipe mostly because I didn't have any whole wheat flour at home. Oops! And obviously, I substituted the classic semi-sweet chocolate chips for white chocolate ones. Feel free to got nuts (no pun intended) with the chips: use whatever chocolate you like and add dried fruits and walnuts if the mood strikes. Even butterscotch chips could work here, if you want to be insanely decadent, but the cookies may no longer be vegan...

1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup white sugar
2/3 cup canola oil
1/4 cup unsweetened non-dairy milk
1 tablespoon tapioca powder or cornstarch
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease 2 baking sheets. Combine the sugars, oil, milk and tapioca flour (or cornstarch) in a mixing bowl. Use a strong fork and mix really well, for about 2 minutes, until the mixture resembles smooth caramel. Mix in the vanilla. Add 1 cup of flour, the baking soda and salt. Mix until well incorporated. Mix in the rest of the flour. Fold in the chocolate chips. The dough will be a little stiff, so use the hands to really work the chips in. Roll the dough into ping-pong ball-sized balls. Flatten them with the hands to 2 1/2 inches. Place 8 on each baking sheet and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until they get just a bit browned around the edges. Let cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack and cool completely before serving.

I make big cookies, so I get anywhere between 12 and 16 with this amount of dough, but you can make them smaller and get 24. If you do make smaller cookies, reduce the baking time by a couple of minutes, or they will get very crunchy. Also, this dough is sticky, so I recommend flouring your hands carefully before making your dough balls, otherwise, they will stick to your fingers very stubbornly. Your reward for the flour-mess will be delicious cookies that are just sweet enough, with a crispy outside and a moist inside. This is also a practical recipe, because the mixing is all done in one big bowl, which means less dishes to clean; something I never fail to appreciate.


The big glass of milk is not mandatory, but it's wonderfully comforting. Besides, doesn't it just make you giddy, dipping a big cookie in some milk and chomping down on it like a rabid maniac? Is that just me?...

Store those babies is a air-tight plastic container to keep them fresh and double the batch if you have company. These cookies disappear alarmingly fast!

Sunday, 13 November 2011

Gratin Dauphinois

Does any dish scream "French" more than the gratin dauphinois? It is one of those staples of French cuisine which brings to mind lovely bistro tables and accordion music. Rich and creamy potatoes covered in melted cheese; it doesn't get much better than that!

The recipe's name refers to the Dauphiné region in France, where this method for preparing potatoes originated. And as with any other so-called classics, there are about a million versions out there, varying with regions and personal taste. Of course, everyone is convicted that their version is the ultimate gratin dauphinois. I have tried a few, and I find that a balance of the creamy texture of the potatoes, strong taste of cheese and subtle seasoning is the goal one must aim for with this gratin. It is not meant to be the main course of a dinner, but a luxurious side-dish to a roasted or grilled meat (even if it will steal the spotlight if prepared properly), so it can't have an overwhelming taste. It must be just like Audrey Hepburn in "Funny Face": easily overlooked at first sight, but fallen madly in love with after a small taste. Yes, I just compared the divine Audrey to a potato gratin. I am a monster.

My point is that it does require quite a bit of preparation, so you might not want to serve it as a side to another dish that is laborious to prepare (unless you spend your days at home cooking, lucky you!). A lamb-roast is amazing with gratin dauphinois, because of the taste, and because it pretty much takes care of itself in the oven and won't have you fussing with a bunch of pans. I also like to serve it with some marinated fish or chicken (or lamb chops!), cooked in the grilling pan. Less is more in your marinade here! A bit of lemon juice, a handful of tarragon and thyme and some olive oil. Period. Forget heavy and sweet marinades here; the gratin is rich enough. A lovely pepper steak is the ultimate low-maintenance protein to serve as a main course with your gratin. It is a week night, so that's what I did.


The gratin dauphinois below is my favorite, found in the pages of Patricia Wells' "Bistro Cooking"; the spice of nutmeg and the robustness of Gruyère make for a really amazing blend of tastes. And of course, I just love potatoes. The cream and milk give them a great texture; they all but melt in your mouth… Note that it's totally worth it to go to a fromagerie to buy real Gruyère. The Swiss cheese you get in supermarkets is not bad, but there is something about the strength of Gruyère that will take this dish to another level. I used one from Fribourg, Neuchatel for the gratin pictured below, and I got the bang for my bucks.

3 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced
2 cups whole milk
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 bay leaves
Freshly ground nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups freshly grated Gruyère cheese

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with the milk and 2 cups of water. Add the garlic, salt and bay leaves. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally so that the potatoes do not stick to the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring from time to time, until the potatoes are tender, but not falling apart, about 7 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer half of the potatoes in a large gratin dish. Sprinkle with the nutmeg, pepper, half the heavy cream and half the cheese. Cover with the remaining potatoes, and sprinkle again with nutmeg, pepper and add the remaining cream and cheese. Bake the gratin until crisp and golden on top, about 1 hour. Serve immediately.


Remember that as with most potato-dishes, this reheats like a charm, so grab the leftovers for your lunch the next day with a salad or a sandwich. To die for!

Wednesday, 9 November 2011

Penne Alla Vodka

I am blessed with a boyfriend who is wonderfully open-minded when it comes to what I feed him. My cooking experiments never worry him, and as he says it himself, he'll eat it once, just to see if he likes it. As nice as it is, I still am the happiest girl in the world when he really loves what I cook, and the little recipe below was a huge hit (at least it was, once I found the proper flavor balance). Aside from being a fearless eater, my man is also Russian. I knew very little about the culture, and even less about the cuisine, when I met him. Turns out there is much more to it than potatoes, Tchaikovsky, organized crime and frozen tundra. Russian cuisine is perfect for Canadian winter, as the basic idea behind most of it is to keep you going (and keep you warm!) through endless, bitterly cold winter days.

Now, this recipe is not Russian (but fear not, I will get to traditional Russian dishes soon enough; it's getting cold in Montreal!). At all. It's not even Italian, in fact, but I had a feeling he might like it, because like any self respecting Rouski, he loves his vodka. Pasta alla vodka was created in New York, during the 50's, when the now-omnipresent Eastern European spirit became hugely popular in North America, and people started using it in everything. There is now hardly an Italian restaurant where you won't see this on the menu. It is traditionally served on pennes, but any tubular pasta does it justice. Pictured below are some rigatonni, which I had on hand at the time.

If you allow me to wax romantic for a minute, I have to confess I have a soft spot for this recipe because it's a perfect example of how the combination of two very different cultures can make something absolutely divine. At the end of the day, no matter what our cultural background is, we all want to eat. We all have our particular way of cooking, and when we dare to put our heads together and combine our knowledge, we can create pure happiness, at the very least in our plates. As exasperated as I am with some Americans (the insane ones; the sane ones reading this are cool, obviously), I have to admit that some gems came from the (sometimes unwilling) cultural clashes of their melting pot areas; in this case, Brooklyn. My hat's off to the Russian who spilled his vodka in some Italian cook's saucepan. The result is neither really Russian nor really Italian, but it is fabulous!

For those who need reassuring, you can't get drunk eating this dish (sorry to my alcoholic friends!). Wine and spirits are used very often in cooking and baking, and almost all the alcohol evaporates in the heat. All that's left behind is the taste and a subtle je-ne-sais-quoi… This recipe makes a creamy tomato sauce, with a tangy seasoning and the subtle heat of the vodka. It's so easy and so delicious that you clearly have no good excuse not to run to your pots and pans as soon as you've read the recipe. Even vegans have no excuses, because the cream can be substituted for slivered almonds, and it will still taste awesome! Find yourself 3 other people to feed and go get:

2 teaspoons olive oil
4 cloves minced garlic
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 (28 ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1/2 cup vodka (I use Moskovskaya, because it's my man's fave)
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup cooking cream (15% is just perfect)
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil, plus extra for garnish
1 package dry penne or rigatonni

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. When the water is boiling, cook the pasta according to package instruction. Preheat a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the oil, garlic and crushed red peppers to the saucepan and sauté for about a minute, until fragrant, being careful not to burn. Add the crushed tomatoes, vodka, thyme, oregano, salt and black pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes, then stir in the cream and simmer, mixing constantly for a couple of minutes. Cover and turn the heat down a bit to bring to a simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the basil leaves to the sauce, and mix the sauce and pasta together in the pot. Serve, garnished with a little basil on top.




To veganize, replace the 1/2 cup of cream with 1/2 cup slivered almonds, and pulse the sauce with an immersion blender until it’s creamy (Isa Chandra Moskowitz has a version in “Veganomicon” that works well) before adding your chopped basil leaves.

Serve this with a cute spinach or mixed greens salad with a clean-tasting dressing and a nice, fruity red wine, like a merlot, and you have a quick, yet incredibly classy evening meal.

Monday, 7 November 2011

Asian Marinade for Grilled Tofu

Hippies rejoice! This is an uber-healthy recipe, and it is delicious!

There are many ways to cook tofu, which is one of the things I love about it. You can fry, bake, stew, scramble it... But grilling it is one of the most simple and quick ways to cook it. I love the chewy texture of grilled tofu, and if you use a grilling pan, it will look so cool with the little charred marks!

Marinating it is also the easiest way to infuse your tofu with flavor. I'll concede it; in and of itself, tofu doesn't taste of anything. But once drained and pressed, it will do a great job of absorbing the flavors of a marinade, or anything you cook it with. Another reason to make friends with tofu if you haven't already; the possibilities are endless!

Maybe it's a vague patriotic fiber, but my favorite brand of extra-firm tofu is Liberté. The plain or fine herbs varieties are both great, and the texture makes it really easy to prepare. Check the expiry date when you buy them, but they usually keep almost a month in the fridge, and tofu can be frozen. Just pop it in the freezer, still in it's package. You can keep it there for a few months. Defrost the package at room temperature until completely thawed, drain and press, and cook!

I whipped this marinade up one night, out of what I had left kicking around the pantry; it's basically my favorite Asian-y flavors all blended together. Sesame, ginger (of course!), lime and soy sauce make for a juicy, salty and zangy tofu.

1 (1 pound) block extra-firm tofu, pressed
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 limes, juiced
1 thumb-size piece of ginger, peeled and minced
2 cloves of garlic, smashed
Sesame seeds, to sprinkle

Cut the tofu widthwise into 4 equal pieces and place the pieces in a Pyrex dish. Mix the marinade ingredients together well, and pour over the tofu. Let it marinate for 1 to 4 hours, flipping it every half hour.


Preheat a grilling pan on medium-high heat, then spray with nonstick cooking spray. Use tongs to place to tofu pieces in the pan, and use them to gently press them down on the ridges. Cook for 3 minutes on one side, then flip and cook for another 3 minutes.



Flip again, and turn the tofu pieces 90 degrees to get a lovely crosshatched pattern. Cook for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and place them on a cutting board. Cut each piece diagonally across in 2 triangles or in long strips. Serve drizzled with the marinade, and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

It's perfect with some jasmine rice or vermicelli, and steamed veggies, especially broccoli. Don't forget to leave the soy sauce and some Sri Racha on the table!



This dish is an extremely easy complete meal, and once the marinating is done, it takes 10 minutes to get on the table, and will leave you stuffed and utterly happy with life.

If you get home from work or school starving and don't want to wait the hour to press the tofu, then the hour to marinate it, here's what you do: when you get up in the morning, press your tofu while you are going through your morning routine. Pour the marinade over the tofu, and put the Pyrex dish in the fridge. Then shoo, go about your business. The tofu can sit there all day, absorbing flavor. You don't get to flip it, but it'll be just as good once it lands on your plate.

Sunday, 30 October 2011

The Beauty of Pasta (or Tomato-Basil Spaghetti)

Being Italian on my mother's side, I must have eaten tons of pasta in the last 27 years. I know I am not the only pasta-lover out there, as recent surveys say they are the most popular food item on the planet! So I am going to indulge in a little rave about how awesome pastas are.

For a couple of years, as a broke musician with a tiny kitchen, I wouldn't have gotten very far without dry pasta. They are inexpensive (the recipe below costs about 5 bucks of basic ingredients and serves 2 generous helpings!), very easy to prepare and can be served in an infinite number of ways. People who think pastas are boring really lack imagination (if you know them, redirect them to this blog immediately). Pastas are like a blank canvas, and it's up to the spoon-holder to chose how simple or elaborate the final master-piece will be. In fact, they are a great way to practice cooking creativity without making too much of a mess. You can whip up something as simple as the following tomato-basil spaghetti for a movie-night in, or serve something as elegant as a spaghetti con calamari without breaking a sweat, and fooling friends and family into thinking you are a spectacular chef.

There are a few basic rules to follow if you want to cook great pasta. First off, pick good-quality pasta. Most grocery stores stock decent enough stuff, so stay away from Catelli. If you are stuck in a no-man's-land, try gourmet groceries, or hit Little Italy and stock up. Dry pastas don't go bad, so you won't be wasting it. My personal favorite brand is Giovanni Panzani, but anything that is imported from Italy usually does the trick.

Bring a large (as in big enough to swirl your pasta around freely) pot of water to a boil. When you get nice big bubbles, throw in a small handful of coarse sea salt (about as much salt as you'd put in the equivalent quantity of soup). The bubbles will get crazy from that salty action; it's time to add the pasta. Make sure they are submerged, and stir from time to time with a pasta spoon (a slotted spoon with teeth; best thing for strings like spaghetti, cappelini or tagliatelle). You'll need to leave them for 5 to 10 minutes in the water, depending on the type of pasta, to get them al dente. You want them to soften, but with a bit of a firmness to the bite. If they fall apart, your plate will be a gooey mess, and that's just not appetizing. If you add them to a sauce, you can even under-cook them slightly, and the heat from the sauce will finish the cooking. Drain them in a colander and save a bit of the cooking water in case the pastas need to be loosened up later.

Many people add a few drops of oil to the water so it doesn't stick, but I find that a bit silly. Well-looked after pasta simply doesn't stick. Give them a gentle stir from time to time, scraping the bottom of the pot and everything will be peachy.

I cannot go for more than a few days without pasta, so I am constantly looking for new ways to serve them, but this is my favorite lazy pasta: I love it on Friday evenings, when I am tired and hungry... with a big glass of red wine as a side-dish. You'll find a few variations (inspired by the ones in Jamie Oliver's "Food Revolution") that are just as simple and delicious as the basic sauce. Each version takes about 15 to 20 minutes to get on the table if you time your pasta cooking properly, which is good news for the hungry. Serves 2 ravenous eaters, or 4 people if you serve it with a salad or as a side-dish to a grilled piece of meat or fish.

2 cloves of garlic
1/2 fresh red chile
a small bunch of fresh basil
1 (14 ounce) can of diced tomatoes
sea salt and ground pepper
1 bag of dry spaghetti
olive oil
Parmesan cheese

Peel and slice the garlic. Finely slice the chile. Pick the basil leaves off the stalks and reserve. Finely chop the basil stalks. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the spaghetti and cook according to package instruction, until al dente. While the water is heating, put a large sauce pan on medium heat and add 2 glugs of olive oil. Add the garlic, chile, basil stalks and stir. When the garlic begins to brown lightly, add the diced tomatoes and the basil leaves. Stir for a minute or two, and season with salt and pepper. Drain the spaghetti in a colander, then transfer the pasta to the sauce pan and stir well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Divide in pasta bowls, sprinkle with Parmesan and garnish with fresh basil leaves.





So absurdly simple and soooooo good and deeply satisfying.

You can also do the following:
- add and handful of baby spinach leaves to the sauce when you add the pasta; when the leaves have wilted, remove from the heat, and serve with crumbled goat cheese sprinkled on top
- add a few handfuls of cooked shrimps and chopped arugula and the juice of 1/2 lemon
- add a can of tuna, drained and flaked, into the sauce with 1/2 a teaspoon of ground cinnamon, some pitted black olives and the juice of 1/2 lemon

After trying a few of those, you will look at jarred pasta sauces at the grocery store and wonder why anyone would want to buy them. That easy and that tasty.

Now, I know pastas have a bad rep as fattening food. I can't deny that they are a source of carbs, like any other bread product out there. But they contain very little fat, and if you eat them with a sauce containing meat and veggies, it's a pretty complete meal. The trick to enjoying pasta is like with any other carbohydrate-rich food: be reasonable in regards to portion size, and don't eat it every day. Also remember that the more active you are, the more your body needs those carbs to stay properly fueled. Carbs, just like fat and sugar, are things your body needs despite being demonized by various skinny freaks; just don't go overboard with the quantities, and you'll be fine. Moderation is the key. If you are paranoid about your weight/health, buy whole-wheat dry pasta instead of the regular white flour pasta, or try making your own pasta dough (recipe to come as soon as I've given it a try)! Also beware of oily and cheesy sauces (Alfredo sauce, for example, is nothing but delicious fatness; for special occasions only), and you'll be able to enjoy them as much as those high-metabolism bastards out there...

Of course, my mamma, my zias and my nonna would all shake their heads at this sort of talk, put a huge plate of tortellinis in front of you and say: "Eat, eat! You're so skinny! How are we going to marry you?". What they mean is basically: "go on, live a little".

Wednesday, 26 October 2011

Crêpes!

Today, I am sharing a beloved family secret: my dad's recipe and method to create delicious crêpes! It's got a bit of everything that makes cooking awesome: they are very easy to whip up, taste great and can be stuffed with almost anything that crosses your mind. They can be breakfast, lunch, dinner and midnight snack!

I had a late morning today and wanted something that could be both breakfast and lunch, as I would need sustenance running all over the island to make my appointments. And let's be honest, I also had a sweet tooth... I have an almost obsessive love of maple syrup, and of all the sweet tasting things in the world, nothing beats it as far as I am concerned. I wanted something I could drown in the golden-brown wonder and devour. Crêpes were just the thing to make me finish my coffee and run to the stove.

Fun fact: in Paris, they have crêpe-stands in the streets, the same way you have hot-dogs carts in New York City! They give it to you rolled up in parchemin paper, so you can stuff your face with a warm crêpe full of chocolate spread and banana slices as you walk down the Champs-Élysées! I confess that this luxurious snack left a lasting impression.

My dad is the son of a French innkeeper, so this technique is old-school French crêpe-making (or so I am told). I used to consider them a treat, but once I got the hang of it, there was no stopping me from making them every weekend. The quantities given make enough batter for 4 to 6 crêpes about 10-inches across, which is perfect for 2 people to pig-out on at brunch. However, it is very easily doubled if you have company.

I found a great non-stick crêpe pan at Stokes, for about $25. It's worth every penny if crêpes become more than an occasional treat in your kitchen. They distribute the heat evenly, and make flipping the buggers with a flick of the wrist very easy, if you plan on looking impressive and professional. A good old frying pan works just as well; just make sure to give it a quick spray of non-stick cooking spray (too much greasy stuff in the pan will make your crêpe congeal), and use a thin spatula to flip the crêpes.

Also, let's not confuse crêpes, which are thin and flexible, with pancakes, the thick American breakfast food that is similar in some aspects (i.e. they are cooked in a pan and generally served under lots of maple syrup). I will tackle pancakes in the future, but this morning, let's make some crêpes, baby!

Here are the ingredients, and method:

1 tablespoon butter
approximately 2 cups all purpose flour
approximately 2 cups milk
2 eggs
1 pinch sugar (if making sweet crepes)
1 pinch salt (if making salty crepes)

Melt the butter in a small saucepan and set aside. In a large mixing bowl blend the butter, the eggs, the sugar or salt, and 1 cup of flour and 1 cup of milk. Mix well with a whisk and progressively add the rest of the flour and milk, mixing well, until the batter is a lovely cream color, and thick but not firm or stiff; it must still drip from the whisk. At this point, you can cover your bowl with plastic wrap and leave it to chill in the fridge for 30 minutes to an hour. Just make sure to let it get back at room temperature before you start cooking.


Preheat a crêpe pan over medium heat. Let it get as hot as you can; it will make your life easier. Give it a light spray of non-stick cooking spray (light!). Spoon the batter on the pan with a ladle; 1 ladle-full should give 1 crêpe. Quickly swirl the batter in the pan so that it form a thin layer that covers the entire pan. Let it cook until it is easily flipped with a wide spatula. Flip every minute until it is lovely and slightly golden on both sides. This should take about 2 minutes for each crêpe.


This should yield 6 to 8 crepes, depending on how big and thick you make them. Feel free to use non-dairy milk if you want to: the crepes will be just as creamy and tasty!



I also experimented with a vegan crêpe recipe, from "Vegan with a Vengeance". Family bias aside, the end result was good, though perhaps a little bland for plain crêpes; these babies fare better stuffed with fruit (spectacular with banana slices and maple syrup, as pictured). If you plan on eating them by themselves, I would suggest adding a sprinkle of nutmeg to the batter.

1 1/2 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
1/2 cup chickpea flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups water

Combine the flours and salt in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the water and olive oil. Blend until completely smooth, by hand or with an electric mixer. Cover the bowl in plastic wrap, and chill in the fridge for half an hour. Preheat a crepe pan over medium-high heat and spray lightly with cooking spray. Use a ladle to pour the batter in the pan; tilt and rotate the pan so that the batter covers the bottom of the pan. When it looks like the top of the crepe is set and the corners of the crepe are beginning to brown lightly, flip over with a thin spatula and cook on the other side for a minute.



Although good, I find these are a bit harder to work with than my dad's batter. They tend to stick together a bit more, and the taste of flour is more present. Still, as far as animal-free alternatives go, I've yet to find a tastier recipe.

Here are a few ideas to make your crêpes memorable morning (or, you know, whenever) feasts:

Sweet crêpes ideas = any of the following garnishes: sliced fruits (strawberries, bananas, mangoes) or whole berries with whipped cream, Nutella, English cream...
Salty crêpes ideas = any of the following garnishes: steamed asparagus, sautéed mushrooms, cheddar or Swiss cheese, prepared ham.
Or for sweet and salty experiment, serve crêpes with sliced Granny Smith apples, Brie cheese and candied Pecan nuts.

Now, keep the following in mind: the first crêpe is the test-crêpe. Use it to judge if your batter needs more milk or flour. If it spreads thickly or unevenly, add a splash of milk, blend well and try again. If it's so liquid it won't "catch" and cook, add some flour, a small handful at the time. You can only really tell from experience, and it's worth tearing a crêpe or two to get a good end result. You should see it cook pretty clearly if your batter has the right consistency: the edge will curl up very slightly, the surface will brown evenly and it will be easy to flip.

I can eat plain crêpes with maple syrup every day (for every meal, in fact), but if you plan on garnishing, have everything ready BEFORE you prepare your batter. Chop the fruits, sauté or grill veggies, prepare the cheese. Speaking of cheese, the secret to a lovely, uniform coat of melting cheese at the heart of your crêpe is: pre-sliced! Buy a pack of neatly, thinly sliced Swiss cheese and cut the little squares in half and carefully place them in a long strip in the middle of your crêpe for the last minute in the pan, just to let it get warm and melty. Top with asparagus, mushrooms, ham, etc.

Unless you own a huge crêpe pan, keeping the crêpes perfectly folded for a fancy presentation can be tricky, as they tend to slip. A naked toothpick is a bit unsightly, so I suggest camouflaging it. A whole strawberry upside down is always cute, but anything you stuff your crêpe with can work: a mushroom cap, a chunk of banana... or go tropical with a cocktail umbrella!